So often in modeling we see the representation in concrete done in the same old battleship gray, and there is nothing wrong with that. In many cases that shade is perfectly fine, we have done so as well from time to time. However, there are literally 100’s of different gray tones and concrete itself can be produced in most of them as well. So, why make it the shade of every concrete item in your modeling, layout or diorama? Probably because it is quick to grab, paint and be done with it. When out and about in whatever town you are in, take some time to look at any and all things that are concrete. Bridges, highway barriers, buildings, support beams, sidewalks, stairs, etc. and notice how nearly all are different shades of colors, and many aren’t really gray at all, tans, beiges, and sand color dominate a large percentage of them. Concrete also is produced in many textures from smooth polished to a rough surface not unlike stucco. The options available to modelers is astounding and with a little more time and effort can produce a wow factor to your viewers.
We are going to show you a method we used on a recent craftsman kit by FOS Scale Models, “R.E.A. Freight House” and some ways to enhance them to make them look well used, with products you may already be using, and some you might want to order and try for a few dollars more. In this kit, there were some thick laser cut wood pieces to be used for concrete dock supports and some others made of matte board like used with picture framing that was laser cut and when assembled made 
delivery truck ramps to warehouse type garage doors. The look we were trying to achieve was a rougher concrete in a light beige coloring like is so often seen.
To create the rough look we decide to use the sponge method for applying the paint. For best results find a synthetic sponge with tiny sponge pores. We use the type with a sponge on the end of a stick with a small round surface. You can find these in just about any Craft-store where you find stencil craft tools and supplies. Walmart hast them in their craft section as well. Completely reusable if washed out afterwards and they are not very expensive at all. We use them for many other painting projects in modeling, like for peeling paint effects. For paints we have been trying some of the many newer chalk paints available at craft stores manufactured by nearly all competitors. We used FolkArt Home Décor Chalk in oatmeal color, and we also used a second tone in Folk Art acrylic light gray. Why the Chalk you may ask? Well, one because it’s a new product and we love trying new mediums and believe in modeling that experimenting with them broadens our abilities with practice, and all modelers, regardless of skill level are constantly learning. And two, because it gives an ultra matte finished appearance meaning no shine to it. Unless polished, concrete doesn’t shine. The two different tones complement each other. and we are going for a nicely blended two tone look. If you observe concrete closely you will see different hues of browns and grays. Today we are going for that appearance. A bit later we are going to add a third color to bring out texture.
Start by putting a fair amount on your sponge, dab a small amount off on a scrap piece of newspaper then in a stipple method (blotting or dabbing) randomly hit spots on your model piece (this method can be done on plastic products too if they have been primed first with flat primer) 
getting about half spotty coverage. Grab a second sponge and do the same with the light gray in spots you skipped with the chalk paint. Keep alternating until you get the well mixed tones of each, and enough paint that it slightly rises in spots where the sponge lifted off, similar to stucco by not as pronounced. Do this to one or two sides of each piece, then do any additional sides after it sets, making it easier to handle. You may have to do this until you get a natural concrete color of your desire. Don’t worry, you wont ruin the piece, it’s acrylic and you can paint over it and start again if you aren’t satisfied.
Once the part is dry and has that look you desire, it is time to add the texture look. Look at many
concretes and you will see tiny dark gray or black spots on it. That is actually pock marks or air holes that are found on rougher concrete. How do you get this look? Well this is where you will want practice first on some scrap cardboard or old wood. Using dark gray acrylic craft paint we dip a round brush into it and get some on the bristles, then taking a toothpick, and holding it about 3 or 4 inches behind your subject and 2 inches above it, “flick” the tips of the paint brush bristles with the toothpick gently letting teeny tiny 
speckles fly off it and onto your target. (see the tiny dark gray dots on our photos for an idea on size). Keep them grouped evenly on your target surface for a realistic effect. Once you get to doing this speckle/splatter method, you will find it pretty easy. Don’t over-do it ether. When dry, go back to your sponges and this time with removing as much paint as possible dry dab overtop everything and fade down those dark speckles giving it a softer appearance.
To finish these concrete dock support pieces we used a product made by AK Interactive called “Winter- Streaking Grime”. which is enamel based. This is found online from many military 
modeler suppliers and a few model railroad kit manufacturers websites who are now using these wonderful weathering and effect mediums that were previously always used by just military larger scale modelers. Some of these can be applied to model railroaders projects in the HO, S and O scales primarily, and a few can’t achieve the same results. It is trial and error like anything else and if you toy around with things enough you may find marvelous results. We have had little trouble thus far with the many we have on hand and we love them. Prices are about $6 to $8 per bottle but you use so very little, a bottle could last most of a lifetime of modeling. This stuff is designed for larger scale so you in turn need to scale it down in amount used. The final effect is generally with most of these products finally achieved by adding mineral spirits with a brush on top and pushing pigments into directions you want for the look desired.
I digress. Back to what we do with streaking grime. With what is only in the cap (see how very little we mean?) after shaking it up, we used only a small tipped round brush and apply it lightly to the part you want covered. Immediately we then go to a jar of mineral spirits using the same brush and add a drop or two to where we put the streaking grime. In this case we do not want to streak the grime, but to create an overall light wash with it, barely discoloring it a shade darker and giving it a tad of grime. If there is too much on, don’t panic! just add more mineral spirits to tone it down or remove.
On a separate project with the concrete truck ramps we did the exact same painting method but skipped the Winter Streaking grime altogether so we can make the concrete appear brighter and perhaps newer looking. But we added another product by AK Interactive called “Fuel Stains to random spots on the surface of the ramps to give the effect of oil leaks of many well used delivery trucks. Much the same process but instead of covering the entire ramp surface, we made tiny concentrated dots where oil directly dripped down over time. Then we used the mineral spirits on a .01 fine tipped detail brush and lightly dragged the brush downhill from the center of the dark oil drip. ONCE. from that streak’s bottom back up to the top where the oil drip is, push the stain out to the right and left of the streak, thin at the bottom and a bit wider up top…creating stained concrete around it. for a more pronounced oil drop afterwards, just get some of the concentrated stuff from the edge of the jar and gently make your tiny drop darker………not bigger.
Whatever method you use (because there are many available), or how you choose to apply it, practice with it, experiment, and don’t be afraid to screw up. Everything can be fixed, painted over, etc. or you could just try again. Don’t fear trying new products you find at craft stores, hobby shops, model manufacturer websites, etc. That is what makes modelers diverse and experienced and achieve better and better results. It doesn’t have to be expensive, it has to be creative. You are the boss of creative! Enjoy and Happy Modeling!!
